Is The Catwalk Show Sustainable?

Philosophy Pre-Fall 2014 www.style.com

The recent article in February's Vogue entitled Show Business, poised a valid question, "Is there a place for the catwalk show in a digital world"? I have often found myself wondering how on earth these shows are sustainable, both financially and ethically. For instance what do they do with all the model sized show clothes? Anything from 30 to 90 pieces can be shown, of which 20% will never be mass produced. The cost of producing such a show is in excess of £100,000 according to Vogue, with some shows taking days to set up for a show lasting approximately 18 minutes. I wonder if that includes the actual costs of making the catwalk samples? A skilled team of experts from a variety of sources will produce these one off garments, with perhaps some relying financially on such projects?

But what of the message such excessive extravagance sends out? Who are the shows specifically aimed at? Buyers, celebrities, the consumer or the media? Perhaps all of the aforementioned? May be we all crave this glamorous circus with it's relentless schedules?  Do thousands of people really need to fly around the world up to four times a year to view and take part in such spectacles? I imagine seeing and feeling the clothes, meeting members of the trade, swapping ideas and getting inspired has merit, it is peoples livelihoods and who are we to pass comment?  But there is something distinctly concerning regarding the carbon foot print of all who travel, the excess clothes produced for shows, the models and photographers carbon footprint. Is the need to be a global brand effecting the sustainability of the environment? We may not know for years to come? The most startling fact is the key profit drivers for these designer brands are in fact their pre-collections, as Vogue reports "presented without fanfare" in January and June each year. These collections are quite often half the size of the main line and more commercial. Why then do the design houses feel the need to indulge in such large seasonal shows? Surely the sales figures prove it's not worth the huge financial effort and more importantly not sustainable in a climate that is switching to be less about waste and more about renewable resources and clever ethical best practice.

I am not naive to believe it is so black and white, and I am certain there are many reasons why the current fashion show set up is proving the right option. But I am also certain there is room for improvement and adaption that will evolve fashion's identity. The fashion collective have the power to change. It not only lies in the hands of the people involved but includes the consumers who need to  push for a more sustainable approach to how we view and purchase fashion.

I have pulled together a collection of images from the pre-fall collections for 2014 - examples of what may drive the profitability of designer brands - perhaps it's time to change?